Swooping down the New River in a small boat banking big turns through the jungle conjures up any number of Heart of Darkness and Apocalypse Now flashbacks, but our captain and guide Carlos soon cuts the motor so we can stop and watch the “Jesus Christ bird” walk on water. (Or lily pads, for the less faithful.)
We’re enjoying the hour boat ride to Lamanai, the largest Mayan city in Belize. The original tour we booked through the Hotel de la Fuenta canceled on us, but the owners continued to take great care of us by getting us another one and even driving us down to the dock. In addition to my Dad and I, there’s a group of 10 who have already traveled 2 hours by boat and bus from the island of Ambergris Caye we left the day before.
The river is less active midday than earlier or later, but we still see various plants and animals. A crocodile even splashes the boat, giving me a faceful of water, but not a chance to even realize it was a croc. Lunch for us is the traditional spiced stewed chicken over beans and rice; then we quickly become lunch for the mosquitos. My legs are safe under long pants, but my hands and arms are soon streaked with blood from fending off the little buggers.
Lamanai is worth the sacrifice, though. In addition to a number of restored buildings, walking through the jungle begins to give us a sense of the ecosystem that thrives here. Howler monkeys and toucans own the trees, while the forest continues to own 98% of the known but unexcavated city buildings.
The Tall Temple offers a steep climb to a panoramic view 125 feet above the surrounding rainforest, and most of the group takes at least a stab at it. It’s a welcome escape from the bugs, and there’s a healthy exchange of cameras for “summit” photos.
After walking through the royal residential area and past the jaguar temple, the tour wraps up quickly, but most of us are happy to get back in the boat and enjoy the wind in our faces and cold drinks in hand.
